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Eggplant, Oven Dried Tomato and Skordalia Stacks

Skordalia or skordhalia/skorthalia (σκορδαλιά [skorða'ʎa]; in Greek also called αλιάδα) is a thick puree (or sauce/dip/spread/etc.) in Greek cuisine made by combining crushed garlic with a bulky base—which may be a purée of potatoes, walnuts, almonds, or liquid-soaked stale bread—and then beating in olive oil to make a smooth emulsion. Vinegar is often added. Skordalia is usually served with batter-fried fish (notably salt cod, μπακαλιάρος), fried vegetables (notably eggplant and zucchini), poached fish, or boiled vegetables (notably beets). It is sometimes used as a dip. Wikipedia.


Recipe: Eggplant, Oven Dried Tomato and Skordalia Stacks
Recipe courtesy of Emeril Lagasse, courtesy Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, Inc.
Yield: 4 servings


Ingredients:
8 Slices Oven Dried Tomatoes, recipe follows
1 1/2 cups Potato Skordalia, recipe follows
8 Slices Eggplant, recipe follows
1/4 cup Basil leaves, plus extra leaves for garnish


For the Oven Dried Tomatoes:
1/4 cup olive oil
5 pounds plum tomatoes, cored and cut lengthwise
2 tablespoons course salt
2 tablespoon fresh thyme


Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.
Cover baking sheet with olive oil and arrange tomatoes cut-side up. Sprinkle with coarse salt and fresh thyme. Let sit for 1 hour. Bake the tomatoes until they are almost dry yet still slightly plump. 5 to 6 hours.
To store, pack them into clean jars, cover with olive oil, and refrigerate; or freeze them in plastic bags.


For the Potato Skordalia:
1 pound boiling (such as red bliss) potatoes, halved with the skin on
5 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons good-quality red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 to 1 1/4 cups extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain well and cool. Peel the potatoes, discarding the skins. Push them through a ricer into a medium bowl and set aside. Pound the garlic with the salt in a mortar and pestle until smooth. Add the garlic mixture to the potatoes and stir well. Gradually add the vinegar, lemon juice, and the oil, pounding or stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Adjust the seasoning with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Add more oil if desired.

For the Eggplant:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large eggplant, cut into 8 slices
Salt and pepper

Heat vegetable oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat to 350°F. Working in batches, add eggplant slices to skillet and fry until golden, about 2 minutes per side.
Using slotted spatula, transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

To Assemble:
Place 1 tablespoon skordalia in center of each of 4 plates. Top skordalia with 1 eggplant slice, 3 tablespoons skordalia, 2 basil leaves and 2 oven-dried tomato halves. Top with remaining eggplant slice. Dollop an additional tablespoon of Skordalia on top and garnish with basil leaves.


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Truffle Oil Grilled Portobello Sandwiches

Thanks to Natasha at 5 Star Foodie and her recipe for Truffled Scrambled Eggs I had a bit of the truffle on the brain and I wanted to make a really good sandwich of some kind for lunch (I try to feed my son before he goes to work whenever possible) and we need to go grocery shopping so there wasn't a whole lot in the fridge. I had some sourdough bread, some portobellos, some brie, some truffle oil, a little bit of baby spinach an onion and some garlic. I had a few strips of bacon in the fridge too but decided to behave myself although I'm sure it would have taken this sandwich completely over the top. I used spinach instead. Not exactly the same thing but I had to compensate for the brie which I used sparingly. Anyway here's my tribute to Natasha and truffles (Oh how I wish we had a Wegman's!). Thanks for the inspiration!

Recipe: Truffle Oil Grilled Portobello Sandwiches With Brie, Spinach and Caramelized Onions
In a saute pan, put a little olive oil and heat on medium heat. Add some sliced onion and 1 or 2 cloves of sliced garlic. Saute until caramelized. Remove from pan and set aside. Add a touch more olive oil to the same pan and add about 3 medium sized mushrooms or 1-2 big ones. I left mine whole because they weren't that big but you could certainly slice yours.Sprinkle with salt and pepper and some fresh thyme leaves. Saute mushrooms until almost cooked through, turning once. Remove from pan. Take one piece of nice big sourdough bread (or whatever you like) put a layer of baby spinach, then the mushrooms, then some small pieces of brie or other soft cheese scattered on top of the mushrooms, then the caramelized onions then the second piece of bread. Brush the top of your sandwich lightly with truffle oil and put that side down in your saute pan and toast. When that side is golden brown brush the now top with a little more truffle oil and flip your sandwich over. When that side is nice and toasty and the brie is melted, remove from pan cut in half and share with someone you love. This is kicked up!
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Garlic Roasted Pork Loin with Raspberry Chipotle Glaze

Do you have trouble getting a boneless pork loin to come out juicy? Well, I did for a long time but once I learned this method of cooking one I haven't had a dry roast since whether or not I do the chipotle-rasberry glaze or not.This is yet another favorite Emeril recipe that I have made a bunch of times and it always turns out moist, juicy and delicious. And if you have leftovers you can slice it thin and make sandwiches using the glaze. Fantastic! I promise!




















Recipe: Garlic Roasted Pork Loin with Raspberry Chipotle Glaze
Recipe courtesy Emeril Lagasse, 2002
Prep Time: 1 hr 0 min
Inactive Prep Time: 10 min
Cook Time: 1 hr 5 min
Serves 8


Ingredients
Raspberry Chipotle Glaze:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup small diced onion
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons chipotle chiles in adobo, chopped
2 pints fresh raspberries, rinsed
1/2 cup raspberry vinegar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt


Garlic Roasted Pork Loin:
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 pound boned pork loin
8 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Olive oil
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Directions:
For the Glaze:
In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until soft and slightly caramelized, 4 minutes. Add the garlic to the pan and saute for 1 minute. Add the chipotles and cook, stirring continuously, for 1 minute. Add the raspberries and cook until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and stir to deglaze the pan. Add the sugar and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thickened and reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh strainer, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible.

For the Pork Loin:
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.

Place a large roasting pan over 2 burners over medium-high heat. Add oil to coat the bottom and heat. Season the pork loin with salt and pepper. Place the loin in the roasting pan and sear on all sides until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.

In a food processor, combine the garlic, rosemary, sage, and thyme. Process until smooth. Add enough oil to make the mixture a good, spreadable consistency. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove the pork from the heat. Carefully rub the garlic/herb mixture over the pork loin.

Roast until an instant read thermometer inserted into the center of the roast registers an internal temperature of 140 degrees F, 40 to 45 minutes. Five minutes before removing the roast from the oven, evenly spread the glaze over the top. Remove from the oven and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before carving.

Now for those leftovers. Whole grain roll, thinly sliced pork, some of the glaze and maybe a slice of Swiss! It really doesn't get any better.
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Spinach-Gruyere Gateau de Crepes

Here's another winner from Martha Stewart Living Magazine; February 2009. I don't know what's going on because I never make recipes from her mag but they really had some "good things" this month. Maybe she has a new food editor or something? Anyway, I had cut this recipe out and put on the maybe I'll make this someday pile which usually means I won't ever get around to it. Fortunately, Michael (sse picture below) felt like cooking again so I handed him this and since he'd never made crepes before and wants to learn he was all over it and man was it good! You can make the crepes well in advance and then when you're ready whip up the bechamel and spinach filling. I've included a little history of the crepe after the recipe which I found interesting and hopefully you will too! Enjoy!
























Recipe: Spinach-Gruyere Gateau de Crepes
FOR THE BECHAMEL
1/2 medium onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, plus more for sheet
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/4 cups grated Gruyere cheese (4 ounces)
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper


FOR THE ASSEMBLY
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced (1 tablespoon)
5 ounces baby spinach (about 6 cups)
Pinch of crushed red-pepper flakes
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 lemon, for squeezing
12 small Basic Crepes


Directions

Make the bechamel: Place onion and butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat, and cook until onion is translucent and softened, about 5 minutes. Add flour, and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Whisk in milk in a slow, steady stream. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture has thickened, about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup Gruyere, and stir until cheese melts. Remove from heat, add nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper.

To assemble: Heat oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add spinach, and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add red-pepper flakes, and season with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. Let cool slightly. Squeeze out any excess liquid, and coarsely chop.


Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Reserve 2 tablespoons bechamel. Mix remaining bechamel and spinach in a medium bowl. Butter a rimmed baking sheet. Place 1 crepe on center of sheet, and top with 3 tablespoons spinach mixture. Repeat with remaining crepes and spinach mixture, ending with a crepe. Spread reserved bechamel on top, and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese. Bake until cheese melts and turns golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer gateau de crepes to a platter. Cut into wedges, and serve warm.

Recipe: Basic Crepes






Makes thirty-two 6-inch or twelve 10-inch crepes.

Ingredients:
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
2 cups whole milk, room temperature, plus more if needed
3 large eggs, room temperature
2 1/2 ounces (5 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for skillet

Directions:
Sift flour and salt into a large bowl. Whisk together milk and eggs in a medium bowl. Pour milk mixture into flour mixture, whisking to combine. Whisk in butter. Strain mixture into a medium bowl, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or up to 1 day). Batter should be the consistency of heavy cream; add more milk if needed.


Heat an 8- or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, and brush with butter. Ladle or pour 3 tablespoons batter (for small crepes) or 1/3 cup batter (for large crepes) into pan, turning and tilting skillet to coat bottom evenly with batter. Cook until top of crepe appears set, bottom is firm and golden brown in spots, and center is lifted by pockets of air, about 1 minute. Run a spatula around edge of crepe to loosen. Slip spatula under crepe, and gently flip in one swift gesture. (If it doesn't land quite right, that's OK; use the spatula to unfold or rearrange it.) Cook until bottom is firm and golden brown in spots, about 45 seconds. Transfer to a plate, and cover. (The first one will not be your finest.) Repeat with remaining batter, brushing pan lightly with butter as needed (every 2 or 3 crepes). Serve immediately.


This is my youngest son, Mikey, making a gourmet dinner for his mom. Isn't he cute?

The History and Origin of French Crepes

Crepes are a popular French dish that had their origin in Brittany, a region in northwest France. Originally served on Candlemas and Shrove Tuesday, crepes were meant to celebrate good fortune and family life. In rural French society, crepes are still considered a symbol of allegiance, and farmers used to offer them to their landowner. Crepes are highly adaptable and are appropriate for any meal.

For breakfast and dessert, they can be made with wheat flour, sweetened and wrapped around fruit or sugary fillings. As a hot hors d’oeuvre, crepes are frequently filled with a thick mixture of veloute sauce with mushrooms, ham, chicken, cheese or seafood. And as an entrée, crepes are filled with vegetables, cheese and meat.

Crepes were originally made with buckwheat and flavored only with salt and butter. Farms had their own creperie set up in the corner of the cellar or barn for this purpose. Crepes were first cooked on both sides using hot stones. A crepe’s airy texture is attributed from diligently whipping the batter and aerating it. Some early creperies also used eggs, cinnamon and orange flowers in the batter. Today, most crepe recipes contain dairy products.

Wafer-thin crepes are derived from their thicker brethren, galettes. These buckwheat pancakes are far older than crepes and were baked as early as the 16th century as a staple alternative to bread. Brittany’s weather conditions make growing wheat difficult, while buckwheat grows particularly well in poor soil. The early galettes were simply made and seasoned, and likely contained just buckwheat flour, water and a bit of salt.

Filled crepes can be conical in shape, like ice cream cones; folded in half or into thirds like omelets, rolled like cigars or burritos, or folded in half twice, like a square paper napkin.

Crepe Fillings and Specialty Crepes

Crepes are a highly versatile dish. The two prominent flavor distinctions in crepes are sweet and savory. Savory crepes can be eaten as a meal and contain fillings like cheese, asparagus, ham, eggs, ratatouille, mushrooms, spinach and meat. Sweet crepes contain jam, lemon and sugar, maple syrup, chocolate and almonds, profiterole, banana, pear, apple, berries, pineapple, whipped cream or ice cream.

Two famous types of dessert crepes still exist. Crepes Suzette are sweet crepes rolled or folded with an orange sauce and flambéed with curacao or a similar orange liqueur. For much of the 20th century, Crepes Suzette were the epitome of luxury dessert.
Mille crepe is a cake made up of many layers of crepes. It is a modern variation of an old French dessert called gateau de crepes. Mille crepes can be layered between anything sweet—candied apples, flavored pastry cream, whipped cream, jam or sugar—and are reminiscent of a lighter version of American stacked blueberry pancakes doused in maple syrup

Crepes Adapted for the Modern Diet

Crepe recipes are so flexible that they can be adopted for nearly any diet. Most crepes today are still made with buckwheat flour, especially savory crepes, which make them safe for people who are allergic to gluten. And any crepe can be made without eggs or milk, which is perfect for vegetarians, vegans and those who are lactose intolerant. Simply replace milk and eggs with an egg substitute, olive oil, water and rice, hemp or almond milk. Bodybuilders are known to make a ‘bodybuilder’s crepe’ with egg whites, protein powder, skim milk and flour.

Crepe Culture

Nearly every region in the world with a climate that does not allow for the growth of wheat has its own version of a French crepe. These wafer-thin pancakes provided families of all social classes an affordable, versatile food that could be eaten plain as well as filled. Later, Haute French Cuisine adapted the simple, easy crepe for decadent crepes Suzette and reinvented a familiar food for the upper crust. French crepes have existed throughout history as a grain alternative to bread. The differences in crepe filling allow them to be eaten at any meal. Just give a try to an authentic French treat that can be adapted to any diet or palate.

Thanks to The House of French Crepes (dot) com for this information.



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Tried and True General Tso's Chicken

First, let me apologize for the photo. This is an example of what NOT to do. This recipe does turn out looking and tasting like the real deal. Better actually, but I, in my infinite culinary wisdom, thought it would be a good idea to use the cooking method I use for my Flawless Sesame Chicken recipe instead of the method I've used for years to try and simplify the process and cut back on the cornstarch breading. DO NOT do this! It didn't work on any level. And the brown rice does not belong underneath it either! And sticking dried chilies in a decorative pattern around it doesn't make it look any better! Some days I should just order a pizza or go back to bed and start over again the next day.

If you follow the recipe that I am posting here you will be ecstatically happy with the results. I've been making this for at least 10 years now and it's a dish that my boys, especially my oldest son David, request whenever they're home. Yeah! It's THAT good. They love it! I have no idea where this recipe came from. It is not mine and if I can relocate the source I will update that information here.

Second, after the recipe I have put the very interesting history of this dish written by Fuschia Dunlop in her Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook. It's really fascinating.
Another cook book I need to put on my wish list! Is there no end?






Recipe: General Tso's Chicken

Ingredients:
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1" pieces
1 T. Japanese soy sauce
1T. dry sherry
1 large egg, beaten
1/2 cup cornstarch
3 cups broccoli florets (optional)
peanut, corn or vegetable oil for frying
1/4 cup homemade or low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup Japanese soy sauce
3 T. dry sherry
1/4 cup sugar
1-1/2 T. rice vinegar
1 T. cornstarch
6 T. cold water
1T. garlic, minced
10 small whole dried red chilies


Directions:
At least 1 hour before serving, coat the chicken: Place a wire rack over a sheet pan. Place the chicken in a medium bowl. Add soy and sherry and mix well. Add the egg and mix again until well coated. Put the 1/2 cup of cornstarch in a shallow bowl. Then taking a few pieces of chicken at a time, roll the chicken in the cornstarch. Place the dredged chicken on the wire rack without the pieces touching each other. Set the bowl of cornstarch aside. Cover the chicken loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate to set the coating, at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours if you want to do this earlier in the day.

In a large saucepan of lightly salted water, cook the broccoli to set the color, about 1 minute. Using a wire mesh strainer, transfer the broccoli to a bowl of cold water and set aside (this can also be done earlier in the day).

Heat a large flat-bottomed wok or deep Dutch oven over high heat until very hot. Add enough oil to come 1/3 of the way (should be 2-3 inches deep) up the sides of the pan. Over high heat, heat the oil until very hot, but not smoking (the surface of the oil will shimmer slightly), or to 400 degrees on a deep frying thermometer.

In a small bowl, combine the broth, soy sauce, sherry, sugar, and vinegar, stirring to dissolve the sugar as much as possible. In another small bowl, dissolve the remaining 1 T. cornstarch in the water.

Roll the chicken again in the reserved bowl of cornstarch (you may need to add a little more). In batches without crowding, deep fry the chicken pieces until the coating sets, 30 seconds. Using a wire mesh strainer, remove the chicken and count to 10. Return the chicken to the oil, about 15 seconds. Remove from the oil, count to 10 and deep-fry a third time until the coating is crisp and golden brown, about 1 minute. Transfer to a paper towel lined plate and set aside while deep-frying the remaining chicken.

Pour off all but 2 T. of the oil from the wok or Dutch oven. Return to high heat and add the chilies. Cook until the chilies are dark red (the longer they cook, the darker they become and the spicier the dish gets so adjust cooking time to your taste). Add the soy sauce mixture to wok then stir in garlic. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 seconds. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir until thickened. Add the chicken back to the wok and stir to coat them with the sauce. Transfer to the center of a plate or platter. Drain the broccoli from the water and return it to the saucepan of boiling water. Cook until just heated through, about 30 seconds. Drain and arrange the broccoli around the chicken. Serve with a big bowl of hot rice. Enjoy!


The Strange Tale of General Tso's Chicken
by Fuchsia Dunlop
NPR.org, February 28, 2007

 ·

General Tso's (or Zuo's) chicken is the most famous Hunanese dish in the world. A delectable concoction of lightly battered chicken in a chili-laced, sweet-sour sauce, it appears on restaurant menus across the world, but especially in the eastern United States, where it seems to have become the epitome of Hunanese cuisine. Despite its international reputation, however, the dish is virtually unknown in Hunan itself. When I went to live there in 2003, I scoured restaurant menus for it in vain, and no one I met had ever heard of it. And as I deepened my understanding of Hunanese food, I began to realize that General Tso's chicken was somewhat alien to the local palate, because Hunanese people have little interest in dishes that combine sweet and savory tastes. So how on Earth did this strange, foreign concoction come to be recognized abroad as the culinary classic of Hunan Province?

General Tso's chicken is named for Tso Tsung-t'ang (now usually transliterated as Zuo Zongtang), a formidable nineteenth-century general who is said to have enjoyed eating it. He was born in 1812 in Xiangyin county, Hunan province, and died in 1885 after a glittering career in the Qing dynasty civil and military administration. He led successful military campaigns against various rebel groups, but is best known for recapturing the great western desert region of Xinjiang from rebellious Uyghur Muslims. The Hunanese have a strong military tradition, and General Tso is one of their best-known historical figures. But although many Chinese dishes are named after famous personages (like, for example, the Sichuanese Gong Bao Chicken), there is no record of any dish named after General Tso in the classic texts on Hunanese food and cooking.

The real roots of the dish lie in the chaotic aftermath of the Chinese civil war, when the leadership of the defeated Nationalist party fled to the island of Taiwan. They took with them many talented people from the mainland, including a number of notable chefs, and foremost among them was Peng Chang-kuei. Peng was born in 1919 into a poverty-stricken household in the Hunanese capital Changsha. As a teenager, he served as apprentice to Cao Jingchen, a famous chef who had just opened his own restaurant. Cao had previously served as private chef to the Nationalist official and great Hunanese gourmet Tan Yankai, and was one of the most outstanding cooks of his generation. He worked in a period generally known as the golden age of Hunanese cooking, when the capital Changsha was the center of a flourishing culinary scene.

After his hard years of apprenticeship, Peng Chang-kuei won acclaim as a chef in his own right. By the end of World War II he was in charge of Nationalist government banquets, and when the Nationalists met their humiliating defeat at the hands of Mao Zedong's Communists in 1949, he fled with them to Taiwan. There, he continued to cater for official functions, devising menus for presidential feasts and visiting VIPs, and inventing many new dishes.

When I met Peng Chang-kuei, a tall, dignified man in his eighties, during a visit to Taipei in 2004, he could no longer remember exactly when he first cooked General Tso's chicken, although he says it was sometime in the 1950s. "General Tso's chicken did not preexist in Hunanese cuisine," he said, "but originally the flavors of the dish were typically Hunanese — heavy, sour, hot and salty."

In 1973, Peng went to New York, where he opened his first restaurant on 44th Street. At that time, Hunanese food was unknown in the United States, and it wasn't until his cooking attracted the attention of officials at the nearby United Nations HQ, and especially of the American Secretary of State, Henry Kissinger, that he began to make his reputation. "Kissinger visited us every time he was in New York," says Peng Chang-kuei, "and we became great friends. It was he who brought Hunanese food to public notice." In his office in Taipei, Peng still displays a large, framed black-and-white photograph of Kissinger and himself raising wineglasses at his restaurant, Peng's.

Peng Chang-kuei was no hidebound traditionalist, and, faced with new circumstances and new customers, he worked creatively, inventing new dishes and adapting old ones. "The original General Tso's chicken was Hunanese in taste and made without sugar," he says, "but when I began cooking for non-Hunanese people in the United States, I altered the recipe." In the late 1980s, having made his fortune, he sold up and returned to Taipei. His New York venture was to have enormous impact on the cooking of the Chinese diaspora. Not only General Tso's chicken, but other dishes that he invented, have been widely imitated, and his apprentices have helped to disseminate his style of cooking.

The final twist in the tale is that General Tso's chicken is now being adopted as a "traditional" dish by some influential chefs and food writers in Hunan itself. In 1990, Peng returned to his hometown, Changsha, where he opened a high-class restaurant that included General Tso's chicken on its menu. The restaurant itself did not last long, and the dish was never popular ("too sweet," one local chef told me), but some leading figures in the culinary establishment did learn how to make it. And when they began to travel abroad to give cooking demonstrations in the 1990s, it seems likely that their overseas audiences would have expected them to produce that famous "Hunanese" dish, General Tso's chicken. Perhaps it would have seemed senseless to refuse to acknowledge a dish upon which the international reputation of Hunanese cuisine was largely based – especially when very little, if anything, else was known about Hunanese cuisine. Maybe, also, it would have been embarrassing to admit that the most famous "Hunanese" dish in the world was a product of the exiled Nationalist society of Taiwan and not of Hunan itself, with all the implications of the relative success of Taiwan's development over the course of the twentieth century. Whatever their motivations, they began to include the dish in publications about Hunanese cooking, especially those aimed at a Taiwan readership.

The vast majority of Hunanese people have still never heard of General Tso's chicken, and I have never seen it on a Hunanese restaurant menu, but some of the cosmopolitan culinary elite now claim it as a historical dish. Only the older generation, including Peng Chang-kuei and the senior chefs he met during his time in Changsha, remember the details of how the dish was created, and acknowledge with a smile that it is an invented tradition.

But even if General Tso's chicken is not an "authentic" Hunanese dish, it has to be seen as part of the story of Hunanese cuisine. It doesn't tell the same story as the dishes eaten in remote Hunanese villages, where some cooking methods haven't changed for millennium, but it is a key part of recent culinary history. After all, it embodies a narrative tale of the old Chinese apprentice system and the Golden Age of Hunanese cookery; the tragedy of civil war and exile; the struggle of the Chinese diaspora to adapt to American society; and in the end the opening up of China and the re-establishment of links between Taiwan and the Mainland.

And because the dish has, through the vagaries of history, become known as the Hunanese dish par excellence, how could I even think of omitting it from this book? So please cook it, and savor it, and dream as you do so of the Hunanese past, and the invention of new mythologies in the cultural melting pots of the modern world.

The above commentary appears in Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook by Fuchsia Dunlop. Reprinted with permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton Company, Inc.




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Sour Orange BBQ'd Salmon Tacos

I am a lucky woman! I have a son who wants to cook for me! And he picked one hell of a recipe this week. It's a Bobby Flay recipe that he found on the Food Network website. I usually don't make Mr. Flay's recipes because they require a bit more time to create all of the separate components but it was Michael's day off and he wanted to spend it cooking something really creative. His current cooking position doesn't allow him any experimentation so he likes to expand his horizons in my kitchen and I of course whole-heartedly support his his educational pursuits. He did a fantastic job with this recipe. It was mind-blowingly good and as it turns out pretty darn healthy too. If you make the barbecue sauce a day ahead the rest comes together pretty quickly. This also makes way more sauce than you need so you'll have leftover to make it again or to use for something else. If you want to make it a little healthier use whole wheat tortillas instead of the flour ones and use light mayo for the smoked chili sauce. The only amendments to the recipe that were made was that he used Savoy cabbage instead of red for the slaw and regular chili powder instead of the ground ancho powder. You really should make this! Enjoy!

















Recipe: Sour Orange BBQ'd Salmon Tacos With Red Cabbage Slaw and Smoked Chili Slaw

Prep Time: 1 hr
Inactive Prep Time: 40 min
Cook Time: 1 hr 20 min


Ingredients
2 (10-ounce) salmon fillets
Olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
8 (6-inch flour or whole wheat) tortillas
Sour Orange BBQ Sauce, recipe follows
Smoked Chile Sauce, recipe follows
Red Cabbage Slaw, recipe follows

Cilantro leaves


Directions
Heat grill to high.
Brush salmon with oil and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Grill the salmon skin-side down for 3 to 4 minutes or until charred and a crust has formed. Brush with some of the BBQ sauce, flip over and continue grilling for 2 to 3 minutes for medium doneness. Remove from the grill and brush with more of the sauce. Let rest 5 minutes and flake with a fork.


Grill tortillas for 20 seconds per side. Divide the salmon among the tortillas, top with the red cabbage slaw and smoked chile sauce and cilantro leaves; fold and eat.


Sour Orange BBQ Sauce:
2 cups fresh orange juice
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup white wine vinegar
3 cups granulated sugar
1 orange, zest grated
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 large Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
1 head garlic, coarsely chopped
1 habanero chile, coarsely chopped
3 cups canned plum tomatoes and juices, chopped
1/4 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup molasses
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons ancho chili powder
2 canned chipotle chiles, pureed
Salt and freshly ground pepper


Place orange juice, vinegars and sugar in a medium nonreactive saucepan and cook until reduced to approximately 1 cup and thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the zest. Set aside.
Heat oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the onion, garlic and habanero and cook until soft. Add the remaining ingredients and cook until the tomatoes are soft and the sauce has thickened, about 40 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
Transfer the sauce to a medium saucepan and whisk in the reduced orange/vinegar mixture and cook for 10 minutes. Let cool.



Smoked Chile Sauce:
1 cup prepared mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chipotle puree
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper


Whisk together all ingredients in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Red Cabbage Slaw:
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1/2 small red onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon honey
1/2 cup canola oil
Salt and pepper
1/2 head red cabbage, finely shredded


Combine all ingredients, except cabbage, in a blender and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Place cabbage in a large bowl and toss with the vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper and let sit 30 minutes in the refrigerator before serving.



Recipe courtesy of Bobby Flay.


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Savoy Cabbage and Spinach Soup With Green Onion Dumplings

I had seen a recipe like this somewhere on the internet and loved the idea of it but as it was written it seemed kind of blah plus I wanted to make it a bit more healthful. I swapped out 1/3 cup of the white flour with whole wheat, used skim milk and olive oil instead of whole milk and butter and then added a handful of baby spinach for some extra vitamins. The original recipe called for regular cabbage but I used Savoy instead which naturally led me to make this with a slight Asian flair. This really turned out wonderful and healthy too. Healthy comfort food? Isn't that an oxymoron? Not in this case. Enjoy!


Recipe: Savoy Cabbage and Spinach Soup With Green Onion Dumplings
Ingredients:
For the dumplings:
1-2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup whole wheat flour
(Or just use 2 cups all-purpose)
2/3 cup green onions, finely diced
(you could use chopped chives if you want a milder flavor)
2t. salt
1t. finely ground black or white pepper
2t. baking powder
1 cup milk
3 T. olive oil or melted butter


For the soup:
2 T. olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
6 medium garlic cloves, sliced thin

8 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock
handful of baby spinach
5 cups savoy cabbage, cut in a large dice
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced

1t. Chinese 5 spice
To Drizzle: Sesame and Chili Oils

Directions

For the dumplings:
In a medium size bowl, add flour(s), green onions or chives, salt, pepper, baking powder, milk and olive oil or butter. Mix just until everything comes together. Set aside.
For the soup:
In a large soup pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add onion, celery, and garlic. Saute until wilted. Add stock and simmer 10 minutes.

Add spinach, cabbage and carrots and Chinese 5 spice. Bring soup to a boil. Drop biscuit dough by the tablespoon full around the top of the soup. Turn heat to simmer, cover pot and cook 10 minutes or until dumplings are cooked through. Ladle into bowls and drizzle with sesame and or chili oil if desired.


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